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School of fish

Navigating the wavy waters of sushi

January 14, 2008

Communication senior Laura Lieder, left, dines with psychology senior Kristin Peters on Thursday at SanSu Sushi and Cocktails, 4750 S. Hagadorn Road. The pair began their meal with salads along with miso soup, which acts as a digestion aid for sushi.

In the world of raw fish, it doesn’t take much to get hooked. The East Lansing sushi scene is ripe for both seasoned consumers looking to tempt the taste buds and beginners ready to get on a roll but scared to test the waters.

Rebecca Jeon’s family has more than 35 years of sushi experience, but new scowls and squints from fresh — and often confused — visitors are seen every day. Despite the reactions from some bewildered beginners, the owner and manager of SanSu Sushi and Cocktails, 4750 S. Hagadorn Road, said the sushi industry is booming.

Jeon’s restaurant, which has been at its current location for six years, will open a larger space in the shopping plaza at the end of the month.

“It used to be, ‘Eww, raw fish,’ but now our tatami rooms are at capacity,” Jeon said of the Japanese meeting rooms. “People who try sushi or sashimi now are more willing to try new things.”

The key to ordering sushi — raw fish over vinegared rice — is to ask questions and start small, Jeon said. If you are weary about the raw side of sushi, begin with a vegetable roll and work your way up the sampler ladder to narrow down your likes and dislikes.

“We try to describe from the texture, taste, aftertaste and color appearance,” she said. “We know the first experience is the most important. If you have a good experience, you tend to start liking it and trying (it) again — you either get it or you don’t.”

Whether or not you make the connection in the taste arena on day one, the health benefits of raw fish are long lasting.

Kathryn Stein, a registered dietitian for Ingham Regional Medical Center, said sushi packs a health punch unlike many dining options.

The omega-3 fatty acids found in the raw fish help control the body’s blood lipid levels and prevent cardiovascular disease. As a meal that is both low in fat and high in protein, sushi is a good option for maintaining a healthy lifestyle, Stein said.

“You can’t eat sushi and then a double cheeseburger and expect to be healthy,” she said.

Jeon said the sushi trend has been popularized by TV shows and as a date option for the younger generation who take the bait. The sushi allure is found in its versatility, presentation and portability, she added.

“It’s easy to go to, easy to eat, lightweight and not a full course meal,” she said. “It’s more than a health food, it’s an art form.”

Sushi keywords

Sushi: Anything made with vinegared rice

Sashimi: a large cut of raw fish on rice

Rolls/“nori”: raw fish and vinegared rice rolled with seaweed or soybean paper on the outside

Edamame: soybeans, served in the pod

Wasabi: green paste, Japanese horseradish, made from a wasabi root. For sushi and sashimi, was served to kill parasites of fish but now it’s a condiment

Miso soup: fermented soy beans with tofu, dried seaweed, scallions; important as a digestion agent for sushi

Ginger/“gari”: pickled ginger, cleanses the pallet to expose all the flavors of the fish

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Hot towels/oshibori: complimentary rolled up hot towels sometimes offered prior to meal, for those who can’t use chopsticks to clean their hands to eat with them

Mastering Sake

Instead of pairing carbonated soda or fruit juice with your authentic Japanese sushi, the most obvious drink would be a genuine Japanese sake.

Sake is a Japanese wine made from polished rice but brewed like beer, said MSU alumna Allison French, a waitress at SanSu Sushi and Cocktails, 4750 S. Hagadorn Road, in Hannah Plaza.

French has been serving SanSu patrons for nearly three years – and found that sake goes better with food than vodka or beer.

Luckily, sake is as varied as any regular robust Zinfandel or Merlot with many textures and tastes. Sake is mild, sweet and smoother than most American spirits.

Here are French’s tips and conditions for drinking this Japanese treat:

Any smooth-tasting sake can be paired with mild-tasting fish.

Sake can replace any higher-quality vodka in cocktails, but it adds a sweet undertone to distinctive drinks like cosmopolitans.

Any higher-quality sake with sweet flavors like hazelnut can be paired with desserts like cheesecake or any kind of chocolate.

Hot sake, originally started to mask cheaper-quality sake, can be an alcoholic substitute to coffee or tea.

—Compiled by Brandon Dunlap

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