Don't limit taste buds to chain restaurants
Tweet
Zack Colman
With BTB Burrito nestled in its tin foil-covered coffin, I was disheartened to see yet another independent East Lansing restaurant die and expected a chain eatery to inhabit its former home.
When I first visited Brother’s Grill, which replaced BTB Burrito at 403 E. Grand River Ave., I thought it was just another link on the far-reaching corporate chain. The logo was well designed, its bulletin board style menu flawless. No single person could invest the time and resources into such frivolous things.
Then I learned I was wrong; Brother’s Grill was indeed an independent restaurant.
And wow — the food was good. And I thought to myself, “Why aren’t more East Lansing restaurants like this?”
There are some obvious, sensible answers to that question.
First, name recognition for food is as important to anybody as it is for clothing and cars. Second, chain restaurants are cheaper because their costs are lower as a result of economies of scale, and price cannot go unnoticed in a town full of college students. Third, such restaurants usually make food more quickly, and it’s common knowledge college students are impatient (you probably won’t even read this entire column).
But who can honestly say a chain restaurant offers the intangibles of a dining experience?
Where else can one feel like they’ve teleported into some crazy Japanese arcade, such as at Udon Sushi Bakery, 134 N. Harrison Ave.? And doesn’t it feel great to be treated like a guest in somebody’s home, such as at Gumbo and Jazz, 1133 E. Grand River Ave.? How comforting is it to know that Joe Conrad, owner of Conrad’s Corner at 228 Abbot Road, knows you so well he’s putting a slice of cheese pizza in a to-go box as soon as you walk in the door? And what satisfaction can be gained from witnessing the cook peel fresh potatoes to make delicious seasoned french fries, such as at Brother’s Grill?
It’s possible this is all a bit dramatic for food. But what people fail to realize is to these restaurateurs, this is more than just food. It’s their income, their savings, their lives. Hours are spent crafting a menu, mixing and matching spices and ingredients, deciding on presentation and designing the restaurant. The food is created, not produced.
I’m not asking people to like the food at every restaurant. When I was growing up, I was so opposed to trying new foods that my parents took me to a therapist, who urged me to “try a mouse nibble” of everything. But there are plenty of East Lansing restaurants that, for good reason, have seen an early grave (No Moe, I will not go back to your Firehouse Grill until you learn to spell at least a quarter of the menu correctly) or will never receive my money again (Dear Green River Cafe, 211 M.A.C. Ave., if I wanted my outrageously organic, trendy and expensive lentil soup cold, I would have asked for it that way). But there are plenty of independent restaurants people aren’t trying because they’re so locked into chains.
Independent restaurants have to rely on a sort of cult following to remain in business. One of my friends frequents Teriyaki and Gyro, 1139 E. Grand River Ave., so often that I think they’re putting a picture of him on the building’s awning. But they know him, he tells people to eat there, and they get more customers. The cycle continues.
Unfortunately, the chance at success for start-up restaurants is very slim, and it’s a reality with which all entrepreneurial restaurateurs must cope. But East Lansing restaurant-goers are unique in that they don’t often seem to give new restaurants a chance, let alone a second chance. And it’s not because this is a city dominated by students. Although the college town is a niche market, Ann Arbor is rife with independent eateries.
It’s not that chain restaurants put bad food on the table or are evil cogs in a capitalistic machine (sarcasm, people). They started out as independent restaurants and people enjoyed their food so much that they were able to expand. And truthfully, I enjoy a Hot-N-Ready from Little Caesars Pizza, 1203 E. Grand River Ave., as much as anybody else. But there are many other options people haven’t explored. And I’m not asking for much, either.
Just a mouse nibble.
Zach Colman is the State News opinion writer. Reach him at colmanz1@msu.edu.
Commentary
Add your $0.02, go to the comment form or follow the comment feed
Amy
(02/17/09 8:41pm)Report
Lansing has a number of great local restaurants, many accessible by the number 1 bus (Emils, Restaurant Mediterean, others on Washington Sq). There are also others, like DeLucas, which are worth borrowing a car for a good meal.
another SN moron
(02/18/09 9:09am)Report
if you want to pretend to care about “BTB Burrito” perhaps you should actually know what the acronym BTB stands for
MS
(02/18/09 9:59am)Report
“if you want to pretend to care about “BTB Burrito” perhaps you should actually know what the acronym BTB stands for”
And that would be relevant to the article how, exactly?
Marcus
(02/18/09 10:36am)Report
Amy: Second on Deluca’s, but I’ll pass on Emils.
Still, I feel like this area is too full of chains. I’ve been searching in vain for months for a restaurant that I really want to go to on a regular basis. I keep hoping I’ll find one worthy of sending into Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives. They’ve been in Michigan only a few times, and once was to Ann Arbor at a place that appears to make spectacular burgers.
C’mon, East Lansing! Let’s get some food that hasn’t had all the taste focus group’d out of it!
@ the SN hating moron
(02/18/09 1:42pm)Report
Hey buddy, BTB Burrito is what they changed their name to after they couldn’t use the name Big Ten Burrito anymore. If you’re going to rip on somebody rip on them right.
As for the actual article, totally seconding the Brother’s Grill recommendation. There’s nowhere else in East Lansing where you can get a burger of that quality for so cheap. Crunchy’s isn’t bad, but Brother’s definitely tops them.
Matt
(02/18/09 2:09pm)Report
If you like authentic Chinese food check out a new place called Hong Kong 315 Homer Street. The outside looks like an old barn (painted barn red) and looks kind of shady, but the inside has a great atmosphere and the food is THE BEST I have ever had when it comes to Chinese. The waitstaff is extremely friendly and they want to take care of their customers. The food is excellent and prices are very cheap with large portions. I urge you to check it out and see for yourself!
Satisfied
(02/18/09 2:25pm)Report
Great call on Brother’s… ate their for lunch today and it was delicious. Big, tasty bacon BBQ burger and fries for $5.50? Good variety on the menu, too. I hope it sticks around.
Satisfied
(02/18/09 2:25pm)Report
oh snap! I ate THERE today. I feel shame.
Brother's Grill Is Delish
(02/18/09 3:33pm)Report
I’ve been to Brother’s Grill 4 times now and have never been disappointed. $5 gets you a giant delicious burger (no McD’s 10%Meat Crap) WITH FRIES! Can’t beat that. Also, BTB only went out because they were more invested into the Ann Arbor location. A shame, but at least a better place replaced it.
BTW, did anyone go to Memo’s before they closed down? They offered Doners, which is a Turkish sandwich usually found in most of Europe especially Germany. This was something totally different than what you can find around here(for all you cynics, it’s nothing like a Gyro), and unfortunately, it’s no more.
PS: Emil’s is to Italian as Taco Bell is to Mexican food.
tommy
(02/18/09 7:35pm)Report
I hate chains, and EL is full with them. There is some good places in lansing, but not much. Declucas does have the best pizza, probably in the entire state of michigan. Golden Harvest has an amazing breakfast, and prolly the coolest, hippest atmosphere ive been into. Reminds me of the cafes in Amsterdam. Sawyers house of pancakes is another must try. Everything is all organic and everything is made from scratch. I urge you to check out their menu online, u will be surprised, they are not just breakfast, but have amazing lunch and dinners! and the BBQ on the weekends is to die for. Peanut barrel is a fail safe for a pleasant atmosphere and quality bar food. Lou n harrys is played out for me, ive been in this city for too long, dont think i can go back there again. Ive been praying, wishing, begging, for Zingermans to open up a EL location. I go there at least once a week for lunch and i work and live here in EL! Some chains i wouldnt mind seeing here in EL, is Baja Fresh…Pizza Rustica (anyone from miami knows this is the shit! and finally a location opened in clinton township)…Lucky strikes is needed here too… BTW Memo’s sucked! It wasnt even a real doner, the bread ruined it. I didnt know they close, but im glad!
awesome
(02/19/09 12:18pm)Report
keep the recommendations coming…. every time my parents come up to east lansing, we always struggle to find a nice restaurant to go to.
Flats!
(02/19/09 1:02pm)Report
Good article, but you forgot Flats! After moving to EL, it’s become one of my fav’s
Jaimie Hutchison
(02/19/09 2:31pm)Report
Brother’s Grill is fabulous. I have taken many people there to try it. A good chicken sandwhich shouldn’t be hard to find, but it is…not at Brother’s Grill!!! They are THE BEST in town. On a seperate note, it is good to be able to go somewhere with a group of coworkers or friends with varying food needs (vegetarians) and likes (fish tacos)!
Michael T.
(02/25/09 9:49am)Report
The BEST burger in town is at The Peanut Barrel! They also have inexpensive prices.
Bill S Preston, Esq.
(02/25/09 10:40am)Report
Sansu is locally owned, and it may be the best all-around restaurant in the area. The coffee/dessert bar next door is also top notch.
Deluca’s is absolutely fantastic.
The Soup Spoon Cafe has delicious food, and the staff and owner are very community oriented and professional. They’re only open for breakfast and lunch, though. They also cater.
Emil’s can be pretty good.
Golden Harvest (of course!)
Palace of Jamaica
Bonnie’s Place – great burgers and atmosphere
Charlie Kang’s
Bangkok Palace
Green River cafe is quite good. It’s too bad this guy wrote them off because he got cold soup once.
The City Pulse (LOCAL newspaper) is a great place to discover new places to eat, in print or on the website.
For a locally owned grocery store, Goodrich’s is so great too if you like good food.